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DOLLMAKERS TOOLBOX by Karen Wooton
For those who missed the first beginner lesson this is a short explanation
of a many of the items that have found their way into my Dollmaker’s
Toolbox. It is not illustrated so I will try to describe some of
the items.
SCISSORS AND CUTTING TOOLS
Paper scissors—or non-fabric scissors. Use for cutting
template plastic, freezer paper, manila card stock anything else
that you might use besides fabric. There is a pair of cheap utility
scissors that will even cut wire.
For cutting fabric, I love Ginghers. They make the best, sharpest
and most reliable scissors.
8” dressmaker
shears.
5” craft scissors
3” or 4” embroidery scissors.
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You want one pair with
very sharp points. They are fabulous for unsewing and clipping threads.
Always test thin pointy scissors to make sure they will snip a thread
at the very tip. Some brands look good but don’t work well
at the tip.
X-acto knife—with
#11 blade. Just useful for stuff.
NEEDLES AND
PINS
Sewing machine needles:
Smitz makes the
best sewing machine needles. Universal size 70 or 80 are
best for most things. They make a machine quilting needle
now that it wonderful for seaming the pieces. Remember:
needles get dull. If you have 12-15 hours of sewing on a
needle it is time to change it. Many people don’t
change needles till they break. If your stitches are coming
out funny that’s one of the first things to check.
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Sewing Needles:
Size 9 or 10
quilting betweens for closing: They are short and thin and
can use quilting thread. You can make small stitches with
them.
Size 7 Long Darners by John James. These are long and very
slender and make great needles for needle sculpting smaller
dolls.
Beading needles—John James makes 12 darners that are
very thin and let you use for beads.
Tapestry needle with large eye for tassel making or working
with yarn,
Dollmakers needles. These come in 3” (great for needle
sculpting larger dolls), 5”, 8” and 12”.
The long needles are necessary for jointing. Look for Clover
brand in the 3” they are finer then some other brands.
Curved needles—useful for needle sculpting and sometimes
closing.
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Pins:
Skip the long plastic tip quilting pins. Long pins are wonderful
but the quilting pins make huge holes. Look for long fine glass
head pins. They will run a little more than the ones with plastic
ends but they don’t melt under an iron. Clover makes some
of the best. They have a daisy head that is very fine and the head
makes them easy to find. The long pins really help with pinning
body parts in place before sewing. Some shorter pins will also be
useful.
THREAD
Cotton covered
polyester for machine stitching, you can use light gray
or beige and it will go with almost everything. Some people
like to use all cotton, it may not be quite as strong but
where the stitches are small that won’t matter. Buy
a good brand. Cheap stuff is cheap.
Button hole thread. Comes in several colors. Good for jointing.
Can be used to close.
Hand quilting thread. Good for closing. Comes in lots of
colors.
Upholstery thread. Check at UFO or the like. Very strong,
doesn’t break good for joints.
Treadleart carries a real strong nylon thread that works
well for joints.
Beading thread. Nymo comes in several colors and sizes and
is excellent for beading.
Invisible thread. Not the fishing line but the stuff used
for machine quilting. Works well for embellishment. Has
tensile strength of cotton.
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TURNING TOOLS
Bow Whip: Available
in any quilt shop or craft shop that caters to dollmakers.
Package has 3 different sized tubes from very small to about
_” diameter and 3 different size sticks that fit inside.
Package shows how to use it. There are cocktail straws and
very fine brass tubes that can be added for turning fingers.
Fasturn: They make a series of different size tubes with
wires with curly hooks on the end that slide inside and
pull the tube inside to turn.
Hemostats; Choose the ones with the long skinny nose. You
may need several sizes depending on the size of pieces you
make. Hemostats have a locking mechanism that helps hold
onto the fabric while you turn.
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STUFFING TOOLS
Whatever works for you. Vast choices. I use some of the following.
Chopsticks. They
come in eating size as well as much longer cooking size
which are great for big dolls.
Hemostats. Useful for stuffing as well. Here it is sometimes
easier to cut off the locking mechanism. I keep pairs both
with and without the locks.
Alligator hemostats. These have a scissor grip but are at
an angle and there is jaws that open on the tip are only
about _” long. Great for stuffing pipe cleaners into
fingers.
Large medical tweezers. These come up to 15” long
and are great cuz you can grab a bunch of stuffing and hang
on while you maneuver it where you want it.
[Hemostats and tweezers can be found at swap meets, gun
shows, some craft shows. Check the prices—some are
more expensive then they should be.]
Stuffing sticks. Smoothed flat sticks about 12” long
1” wide, curved at one end pointy on other.
Stuffing tools consisting of a long metal rod with a notch
cut in the exposed end and stuck into a dowel handle. Very
fine ones can be made by taking a long doll needle and cutting
the eye of the needle in half at the tip and sticking the
point in a dowel. Allows for easy placement of small amounts
of stuffing. Barbara Willis markets one.
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GLUES
Tacky Glue. Regular
and super tack. The Super tack is thick and will hold things
in place better while they are setting up. Dries clear.
Jewel-it. Great for sticking things on. Dries clear.
E6000. Bonding cement.
Glue stick. Useful for working with patterns and other stuff
Glue gun. Hot glue can be quick and will hold things in
place fast but does not hold up over years and can let go
on a warm day. Sometimes I use in combination with Tacky
or another glue so it has a backup.
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OTHER USEFUL STUFF
Freezer paper.
Trace patterns on the stitching line and iron on to wrong
side of fabric (waxy side down). Put fabric right sides
together and stitch around the freezer paper. Pull off paper.
Can be reused.
Manila Folders. Good for patterns
Scotch Tape.
Fray Check. Use on seam allowance where you think it might
fray. It gets a little stiff so it isn’t great on
fingers. Also can stain. Test first.
PomPoms. Great for getting noses and boobs to keep their
shape. Stuff head or chest loosely then add a dab of glue
to the pompom and use tweezers or hemostat to maneuver into
place.
Seam Ripper. A very fine one for unsewing
Needle ball bodkin. Ball on one end needle eye on other.
Ball can be useful for smoothing inside of seam after the
turn. Can also be used for threading ribbon or elastic in
casings.
Teflon Pressing cloth. Good for when working with heat bonding
(Stitch Witchery) stuff. Will protect ironing board and
iron.
Small Tape Measure
Marking pens and chalk markers.
Fringe maker. Device helpful in making tassels.
Pipe cleaners for stuffing fingers. Makes them flexible
and no additional stuffing is required.
Wire in several guages from 16 (heavy) to 22 (light) for
armature.
Wire cutters and needle nose pliers for wire.
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